Last weekend Lee and I had a quick trip to the county, meeting up with Andy J & big group of friends. I was shocked he even had any.
We didn’t hold out much hope of getting a lot in due to the deluge of rain experienced last week. Morpeth was on high flood alert and 40 miles of the A1 being closed due to flooding.
Saturday it was a day at Bowden, it was already quite busy when we arrived, the rock was dry and in good nick. First new tick was a flash of The Mantel 7a. Seemed fairly steady to me, but I do like heel hooks and can lock well. Lee and Andy flashed it too. Team Tick!
His Eminence 7a+ was next up, After finding the start tricky, Sophie sorted me out with some good hobbit beta and it was sent next go. Andy and Lee topped it out for E4. Fuck that. I’m a wimp.
I had a few goes on Captain Haddock, but couldn’t do the move left into the undercut, so while the rest of the group were on that I had a whirl on Poverty. I was well warmed up and feeling strong so shoved my middle finger in the mono and pulled on, I got to the left hand dish but when it came to rocking over to the top jug I felt a familiar pain in my tendon…and dropped off. Only a minor tweak I think, but it did cause me some hassle for the rest of the weekend.
Having taped up, I sent Mantra LH, now upgraded from 7a to 7b due to hold snappage apparently. A cool problem with shit crimps and smeary feet following a rising seam, to a throw to a decent jug at the end.
We had a tickle on Staggered 7b too, a dead cert I thought, as I was so close last visit. It was just in poor condition. I never even got to my previous high point. As the light was fading quick and strength even quicker, a few of the group were working Dog Eat Dog, Lee came up with some excellent beta for Transformer Direct 7a. I promptly stole it and sent it next go.
Sunday with rain when we left the bunkhouse and more forecast, Kyloe in the woods was the obvious choice. Not the best place to head with a tweaked finger, but Emma sorted me out a sweet tape job which meant I could at least climb a bit. I repeated plenty of climbs but no new ticks. The Elf direct 6a, Not Bad 6a+, Bad Finger 6a (aptly named). Monty Python Direct 6c+. I had a couple of goes on Monty Python’s Flying Circus 7a+ but never managed a link. I took up camera duty and mauled my packup.
All in all a fantastic weekend, some new ticks, steak and sausage pie and a dozen new friends. There’s even talk of a return visit this weekend do have a go at a famous highball. I’ll report back if I grow some stainless steel balls and have a go.