Rob Lonsdale Climbing

Now its finally stopped raining it seems summer has arrived with vengeance. I’ve been taking advantage of this in the evenings after work.

Last thursday evening me and Big Rob met up with Guy and his pals at Curbar. It was hot and humid, but we had a good session any way. I managed to retro flash Early Doors 7a+ I’ve done it before but back in 2009.  We did a nice wall climb behind the gorilla block, not sure of its name but its easy. A few goes on the bad landing block before we retreated off to the trackside boulder to confirm it was indeed a bit hot for the grit.

 

Here’s a quick video of me on early doors. Rob’s commentary is a 15 cert. You’ve been warned.

Tuesday evening we hit up Burbage North, opting for mileage.. we solo’d all the routes on the first 2 blocks, probably some 20 routes in total from Diff to HVS. It’s considered a federal offence not to do the classic Banana Finger 6a as you walk by, so this was despatched first go, before I convinced Lee we should go have a go on Small Is Beautiful 7a. We spent a while working the initial moves, mine was dynamic opting to pop for the first break, however it was proving hard to latch. Lee eventually figured a static way but was denied the top out by screaming forearms and shrinking testicles.

Last night we decided to try the lime at Roche Abbey, unfortunately most of the warmups were wet, either through seepage or condensation I’m not sure, so we  started on Crystal 6c+, Andy danced up it, I followed suit but while looking for my landing on the pads my top hand slipped and I took a pretty horrendous horizontal fall from the top landing just behind the mats on my back, I hit the deck like a sack of shit. The lads tried to push me into the mats but it happened all too quickly. Luckily after a bit of swearing I was ok and got back on it and did the climb again to repress the fear.

Rob was making excellent progress on Crystal, Im sure he’ll send it next session. I tried both Borg 6c+ and Sharks tooth 6c+, I kept slipping out of the roof pocket on Borg. Sharks tooth I initially had span issues but these were resolved with some cheeky beta from Andy.

We then moved onto the Beef Buttress, I had my sight on The Fool 7b+, the crimp felt hideous in the heat so I sacked it and did dirty habits 6a and some traverse into bad habits 6c/7a?

Tags: bouldering, burbage north, curbar, roche abbey